• 15 Posts
Joined 11 months ago
Cake day: July 9th, 2023


  • I had a Kyocera Slider, once. I loved to open and close that thing, and it was basically a fidget device. I also had an LG Chocolate 2 and 3, and the physical keyboard was fantastic.

    This handheld incorporates both, but I really don’t know if it can work in this form factor. Part of the reason it worked on the phones is they were relatively small, but with a wide handheld with joycons on either side, it seems like it would be clunky.

  • I switched back to Steam OS from Bazzite due to some QoL issues on the OLED Deck, and there’s definitely some improvements between sound, battery life, and general performance.

    Makes sense why they wouldn’t want to upstream their work, since it gives them a market edge, but I wish they’d introduce some kind of persistent Overlay FS, so people can install non-flatpack software. Being able to layer packages in Bazzite and utilize things like Distrobox was so nice, and keeping these improvements to themselves means the user has effectively less options.

  • …cracking open the one touchpad for which I was trying to swap its cover before I realized it wasn’t compatible.

    Yeah, it’s kind of surprising how dissimilar the OLED and LCD versions actually are, given how similar they look. This is good info to know, though, because I was planning an upgrade eventually, too!

  • From the manual:

    The Clear CMOS button located on the rear I/O can be used to revert BIOS settings to default. To clear CMOS, turn off the power and remove the AC power to the power supply. Allow 30 seconds to ensure no standby power exists. Press and hold the Clear CMOS button for 3 seconds.

    Did you do all of that? I have read elsewhere that reset buttons sometimes don’t work the first time (or at all), so make extra sure you’ve cleared out all the power from the motherboard and CMOS. Some people have even had to completely disconnect the battery.

    If you’re sure that you’re sure you’ve cleared the CMOS, then you should move on to testing the problematic parts one by one. If that CMOS step didn’t fully discharge the power and force a reset to default, it could be that the saved settings got fucked up, and it’s now trying to use corrupted settings (instead of the default fallback ones).

    If that doesn’t work, you might try to see if you can do a BIOS upgrade via flashback, which might reset your BIOS settings to default, after which you can maybe get in and do more troubleshooting.